Where the Sea Meets the Stories: Discovering the Spirit of Alexandria

Alexandria: Exploring Egypt’s Timeless Coastal Gem

Set against the backdrop of the Mediterranean and steeped in over 2,500 years of layered history, Alexandria still pulses with the same vibrant energy and intrigue that once enchanted writer Lawrence Durrell decades ago.

Some cities grow into greatness, while others are simply destined for it. Alexandria, founded by Alexander the Great, falls into the latter. Though he named many cities after himself, only one — this one — has managed to etch itself into the collective imagination so deeply. Just the mention of its name evokes images of a golden past, of legendary queens and monumental libraries, of lost worlds and enduring charm.

Perched on Egypt’s northern edge, near the Nile’s western branch and stretching along the Mediterranean coast, Alexandria was born of geography and vision. The flat, unassuming coastline here conceals a natural harbour once protected by an offshore island — now fused with the mainland. It was this strategic spot that caught Alexander’s eye: a crossroads between ancient Egypt and his budding Hellenistic empire. His instincts proved right. In just a few generations, the city grew into a cultural powerhouse, home to the famed Library of Alexandria, opulent palaces, and the widely worshipped deity Serapis.

But Alexandria’s fame didn’t end with antiquity. In the 1950s, Lawrence Durrell gave it a literary revival with The Alexandria Quartet, and since then, many have arrived with books in hand and poetry in their heads, drawn by the mystique of Constantine Cavafy’s haunting verse: “You’ll always end up in this city. Don’t hope for things elsewhere…” Not all visitors stay, though. The reality — a sprawling metropolis of concrete, crowds, and traffic — can be overwhelming at first. But for those who linger, Alexandria begins to reveal its soul.

The best way to connect with the city? Head to the sea.

Alexandria is defined by its long stretch of waterfront — so long, in fact, that it sometimes feels like the land exists only to support the view. Rising sea levels pose a growing threat here, and much of ancient Alexandria now lies beneath the waves. But a stroll along the corniche still offers a powerful glimpse of the city’s layered identity. Walk past the elegant old Cecil Hotel, fishermen perched on concrete jetties, and you’ll soon spot two symbols of Alexandria’s duality: the 15th-century Qaitbay Fort, standing where the legendary lighthouse once guided ships, and the sleek, modern Bibliotheca Alexandrina, a glass-and-concrete tribute to the great library it replaced. Initially criticized for being empty, the Bibliotheca has matured into a thriving cultural hub with exhibitions, museums, and community programs.

Much of the city’s ancient past remains buried, literally. Archaeologists continue the search for lost tombs — including that of Alexander himself. Many have tried; few have found much. One persistent treasure hunter, a Greek waiter from Piraeus, famously spent his vacations digging for the elusive grave. But there are easier marvels to discover. Wander through the Roman catacombs, climb the hill to Pompey’s Pillar where the Temple of Serapis once stood, explore the excavated villas and theatre of Kom el Dikka, or admire artifacts at the excellent National Museum.

Yet, for all its ancient ruins, what gives Alexandria its enduring charm is something less tangible — its atmosphere, particularly alive in its cafés.

Begin with a visit to Ali Elhendi’s café, tucked inside a grand 19th-century mansion on the corner of Salah Salem and Ahmed Ourabi Streets. This quiet, open-air spot sits within the building’s courtyard, a reminder of the city’s cosmopolitan past. Pastroudis and Union cafés may be gone, but Delices still stands by the tram stop, serving pastries beside the sea. A short walk away is the Trianon, once the Grand Trianon, still exuding a faded glamour. Upstairs was once the office of Cavafy himself. Today, young Alexandrians sip cappuccinos here, their conversations mingling with echoes of poets and revolutionaries before them. This is Alexandria’s quiet heartbeat — ancient and ever-changing.

Four Things to Do and See in Alexandria

1. Explore Ancient Marvels
Tour the Roman catacombs, a blend of Egyptian and Greco-Roman influences. Wander through Kom el Dikka’s theatre and villas, and stand where the famed Lighthouse once rose at Qaitbay Fort. Visit the Bibliotheca Alexandrina — both a modern library and a historical homage.

2. Swim the Mediterranean
While some central beaches are best avoided, head west to Agami or east to Montazah for clean, inviting waters and quieter sands.

3. Browse the Souks
Though less famous than their counterparts in Istanbul, Alexandria’s Attarine Market still delights with vintage curiosities — like the 1960s British ship’s clock I found on my last visit.

4. Eat Like a Local
Seafood is a must. Start at the lively Anfushi fish market, then grab a table at the Fish Market or the Greek Club (Blue and White) on the harbour. For something casual, try Cap d’Or, a rustic bar with standout calamari stew.

Where to Stay in Alexandria

Alexander the Great Hotel
Modestly priced and centrally located, this hotel offers clean, air-conditioned rooms with balconies. For quiet, avoid street-facing rooms — the school across the road keeps odd hours.

Steigenberger Cecil Hotel Alexandria
This grand colonial-era hotel, once a favorite of Lawrence Durrell, sits proudly on the seafront. Now managed by Steigenberger, it blends nostalgia with comfort.

Four Seasons Hotel Alexandria At San Stefano 
True to its brand, the Four Seasons offers luxury in spades — plush rooms, fine dining, and private beach access (across a busy road). A flawless choice if you’re looking to splurge.

Need-to-Know Travel Info

• Currency: Egyptian Pound (LE). Around LE 50 to the £, or LE18 to the €. US dollars are often accepted.

• Dialing Code: +203